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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small restaurant earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.